Thursday, 1 May 2014

What Can You Do With a Metre of Japanese Fabric?

Horaguchi fabric Zippy Top sewn by Cicely Ingleside


I am very behind on posting the kids' clothes I have made recently, but it is Selfish Sewing Week , run by blogger Rachel from Imagine Gnats, in the blogosphere, and so I am posting some more things I made for myself. Also, lately I keep deciding that the fabric I have bought for my daughter should be for me.

Thus, the name of my post -What can you do with a metre of Japanese fabric? Since I bought this fabric for my daughter, I only bought a metre, which could easily make her a top or possibly a dress. But Japanese fabric tends to be quite narrow - about 44" wide - , and to top it off, these are 'directional' prints, which means that they are less flexible to fit in a pattern.

I loved this double gauze print called "Town with the Castle" by Japanese textile designer Kayo Horaguchi. I bought it from the Etsy store Kicoli. I already have two skirts made of Japanese double gauze, and I have a dearth of nice casual shirts, so I decided to make a shirt. I needed a pattern that was fairly simple, due to the fact that the print supplies the detail, so I settled on the Zippy Top pattern by See Kate Sew.
Horaguchi fabric Zippy Top sewn by Cicely Ingleside

I did not have enough fabric to make the whole top, so I decided to 'colour block' the top, using some plain black cotton voile. (I wanted an equally light-weight fabric, which is why I used the voile.) 

I did this by  drawing a line on my pattern from armpit to armpit. Then I cut the black fabric up to that line, plus half an inch seam allowance. I cut my patterned fabric below that line (with another half inch above the line for seam allowance). I sewed the pieces together to look like the full regular pattern piece, and followed the pattern instructions from there. I did finish the seam (I used a serger but any other seam finishing method like zig-zag stitching or trimming would work fine), and ironed it upwards, then top-stitched it along the black fabric, basically sewing the seam allowance upwards. This kept the seam allowance from showing through the bottom lighter fabric.

Nani Iro Fuwari fabric Zippy Top sewn by Cicely Ingleside

I did the same thing with this fabric. I have been hoarding it for a year, loving it but unsure of what to do with it. It is a Nani Iro double gauze cotton print called Fuwari Fuwari.  I bought it from Miss Matatabi on Etsy.

I barely had enough of the blue voile - it was scraps left over from another project, and I had to make the facings in white.

Here's the back.
Nani Iro Fuwari fabric Zippy Top sewn by Cicely Ingleside

In my Japanese fabric-buying frenzy of February (say that five times fast!) - breaking my self-imposed new-fabric moratorium - I came across knit (ie. t-shirt fabric) by Nani Iro. I had no idea there was such a thing!  I decided I really wanted to make myself a t-shirt. So, since this fabric was narrow, I had to order 2.5 metres. (Okay my post name is no longer relevant.)  Again it is from Miss Matatabi, and is called Corsage Kosa-jyu knit. But then I picked an over-size style pattern, and didn't have enough fabric!

This pattern is the Summer Concert Tee by Dixie DIY, with 2 inches added to the length at the front. 
Nani Iro knit Summer Concert Tee sewn by Cicely Ingleside

 What did I do without enough fabric? I colour-blocked again, and made the back out of a plain knit fabric - an undyed jersey (which makes it a cream colour) from Organic Cotton Plus. I don't have a good picture of the back, but I have been really impressed with the fabrics I bought from Organic Cotton Plus  - super comfortable, and natural, and high quality.

I have one more Japanese fabric project - this one made with a fabric which Miss Matatabi called only "Japanese Fabric Forest Cotton Lawn-A". Really lightweight and lovely. You can't see it in this picture, but it has little forest animals and flowers on it. It took 2.5 meters to make this. The pattern I used is by the Roundabout Dress by Anna Maria Horner, which I ordered (again) on Etsy. 

Roundabout Dress in Japanese cotton lawn forest fabric sewn by Cicely Ingleside

I think perhaps that the bias tape at the neckline and the bottom was meant to face the inside and be invisible, but I put it on the outside. Accidentally, really. But I like how it turned out, since it goes with the black band at the waist. (More colour-blocking!)

Probably I should make my daughter something now and stop stealing all her fabric.

6 comments:

  1. Augh! I want to steal your Town with Castle shirt! So cute! :)

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    1. Thanks! I have been looking at more of the fabric by Kayo Horaguchi and it is so hard not to buy it!!

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  2. These all look amazing! I especially love the Nani IRO jersey top.

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    1. Thanks! That's the one I was most worried about when making it, but it is very comfortable.

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  3. Thanks for the info on the Zippy Top hack! Cutting my fabric now!

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